Life in the Village

March 27, 2010




Life in the Village



Quiet. Cold. White.



Finally caught the cold or whatever everyone else has had. Worked everyday, but basically slept most of the weekends. Have been in Nunam all this time. Hoping to go to Mountain Village this week. The K teacher was gone for a couple days to take her basketball team to Alakanuk for a tournament, so I filled in as the K teacher while her TA taught Gr. 1 and 2. This past week, I was teaching K as model for teacher and TA.

This week coming up, I will mentor, advise….until I leave….if I leave….



Last Friday evening, the school put on a spaghetti dinner for the entire village. We expected 200 people and only had about 80... It was suggested that the invites posted around the village did not specify “Everyone Welcome”, so no Elders. Guess we will be eating spaghetti for lunch!!! The big treat was REAL ice cream…chocolate or vanilla with chocolate sauce and cherries! The staff did the cooking, décor and cleanup. It was in combination with parent conferences and the teachers did have several meetings.



It started to warm up last week….30.…but is back to 0, with possible snow flurries tonight and possible - temps again. The custodian tells me there will be snow on the ground when we leave in May. But, it could start raining…and melting…anytime. Guess it gets real messy then. So far, all is frozen solid. Guess I better get my rain gear ordered.



Will try to post some pics here, but have many on Face Book. St. Patrick’s Day I took a sunrise pic from the school doorway around 9:00 am and then walked to the other side of the village to take sunset around 9:00pm. The light is increasing by about 6.5 minutes per day. At 10:30/11:00 pm it is still light! So very strange. I walk to work around 7:30 and it is just beginning to get light then.



The teachers are all making their end-of-the year/next year plans. Some are leaving this school for others in the District. Some are planning to attend the Job Fair in Anchorage to go to other Districts. I have no idea what I will be doing. Am very hopeful I will know more by the end of the week.



Not sure if Trev will be able to get out here in May….Am going to try to do some touristy things as I pass through Anchorage…just do not know any plans…see above.



It is so quiet. My back window looks at the lake. Once in awhile there is a snowmobile , excuse me, snow machine….coming in or out from trips “upriver” to Alakanuk or Emmonak, but for the most part, I have not seen anyone out and about for most of the weekend. I can’t see the “main street” from my house, so don’t know if there is more going on than what I can see. I don’t think so. It is pretty cold, despite how sunny it is. No birds or animals around. Once in awhile I see a raven, but have not seen for several days. I’m told the prints I saw outside my window a few days ago might be a Ptarmigian, but never saw it. I can see the airport and keep missing pics of the planes as they take off and land. No real schedule. Seems they may be charters.



Had a couple guys from the housing department in Anchorage stay at the school for a couple days last week. They were surveying for a new subdivision and causeway to be put in this summer, I guess. It will be located southeast of school. They bring all the dirt for the causeway on barges during the summer. The same for prefab houses. Naturally, there is much more activity around all summer. The barges are how people get their snow machines, big appliances, and other large items. Some teachers have talked about moving from one village to another using boats on the river during summer months.



All for now. Looking forward to going to Mountain Village…..might even get to buy some eggs, finally! Love to all!

Potlatch Photos

POTLATCH




March 12, 2010

Nunam Iqua, Alaska



The villagers have been practicing for weeks. The children have wandered into school all morning long, each day, as they have been up late with their families getting ready for this traditional event. The villagers from nearby Scammon Bay were the invited guests, but as soon as I sat down, a woman from Mountain Village started talking to me. She must have seen me the day I was there!

A little internet research this week gave me some insights. Literally, it means “giving.” Many, especially the Pacific Northwest, tribes celebrate this tradition. It was held as a public distribution of property. Chiefs often tried to outdo each other, with destruction of property sometimes the result. They were outlawed in the 1890’s, though they continued. The law was rescinded in 1951. Today, as in years ago, the gifts given by the host families are modern day versions of tools, housewares, and food. Traditionally, it was a feasting time as well. Today, the families have the feasts in their homes with their closest families and gather together in the Tribal Center for the dancing and gift-giving.

Walking home from school it was apparent something was going on! The traffic was pretty intense. Its very hard to hear, even the snow machines, with hat, wimple, hood, all covering my ears. Visibility is very limited with all of that, and the fact that I either take my glasses off, or they are so fogged I can’t see. By the time a group of teachers got to the hall about 7:15, the building was surrounded with snow machines, as they are called here, the hall was packed, and the dancing was going full force!

While we were there (until about 11:00pm), about 4 families had their giveaway ceremony and dance. In many cases it was a child’s first dance. In the case of the little girl, she is dressed in traditional clothing, standing on a special fur rug, holding out her dance fans. Each and every item brought by the family first touches her dance fans and is then distributed to the crowd. No doubt, the more special gifts go to the people most honored by the child and her family. Some of those items were fish traps, ice fishing scrapers, and fishing lines, atayls (sp), harpoons, and many other hand-made items. Also given were snow shovels, knitted items, hats, socks, quilts, kusbuks (the traditional dresses/shirts…have another name). Additionally, dish towels, dish cloths, plastic tubs, bungee cords, plastic containers, soap, bags of candy and, of course, the children’s favorite…aguduk….Eskimo ice cream! It is made with Crisco, sugar, fish, and berries. Not too bad, tho, my face makes me look like it is awful….just eating.

It was going full force when we left and expected to continue until 1 or so. Not sure what is happening tomorrow, but more dancing is expected tomorrow evening. The room was packed….200 people??? There were an amazing number of machines parked all around. People rode them from other villages 20 and 30 miles away. The ceremonies were in Yup’ik, so not really sure who was being honored for what. The woman I was talking to had a son there. He had shot his first beaver this year. She was a fairly young woman, but pointed out her 86 year old mom. When I asked her questions, she said I really would need to talk to her mom and dad….They are the family in purple. She just got a job in MV as a Teaching Assistant to a special needs student. I’m not sure I got her name. Hope to run into her again as I have some nice pics of her family. Her daughter fell on the benches and had to be taken to the clinic so the Mom missed some of the ceremony she was there for! I saw her on the way out and the girl was ok, but no time to talk and be sure I had her name. Hope to see her tomorrow.

It is now Sunday afternoon. Never made it back to the Potlatch. Guess the cold everyone seems to have finally caught up to me. Mostly slept all day yesterday. Have been puttering around today. Still no refrigerator! Don’t feel like dragging my laundry across the walk, so just hanging low. Finished my jigsaw puzzle. Think the time has changed. Will have to check before morning. May print some pics for the students….if I get ambitious. All for now. Will try to post this at school tomorrow. Love to all.

First Week in Lower Yukon

Yupik ABC 123




February 28, 2010



First Week in Lower Yukon



The Curriculum Director and I left Anchorage Sunday morning, after a last minute trip to the post office to mail a few more boxes. Not enough, as it turns out, as I still had to pay an overage, AND listen to the Bush Pilot complain about all my “gear.” Knew I should have bought the duffle with the back pack! Plan to order it very soon, especially since my job will be traveling weekly. It was about an hour and a half flight on a small jet…15 passengers?… to St. Mary’s. We arrived about 12:30 with the expectation that our flight to Mountain Village ( the District Office), would be leaving at 3:30. It started snowing soon after we arrived. The first I had seen since arriving in Alaska 8 days ago! At first the pilot cranked up the plane saying we would go immediately, then decided to stay, then suddenly we (5 of us) hurried to the plane, with the pilot telling us he would take bodies now and gear later. That flight was about 10 minutes in a 6 passenger plane. When we arrived in MV, a car was waiting to drive back into town. We dropped another itinerant at his housing, toured the town, and back to the District Office. There we got a key for the “Hilton”. The housing for itinerants. It was a long mobile home type building with about 10 private rooms, 2 common bathrooms, a kitchen, and a laundry.

Marty, a School Psychologist from Oregon, was hard at work in the kitchen/lounge. She comes up for 2 weeks at a time, travels to the villages, testing students. She stays in the schools at the villages, and weekends in this housing. One of the secretaries and her daughter came to visit. She had made Marty a fur (think she said it is Sable) hat. Absolutely gorgeous, but, not cheap!

Monday morning I was introduced around the office, and put to work in an office researching preschool/parenting info. That evening, Brian (the Cur. Dir.), came to the housing to tell me there would be Native Dancing practice in the Village Center that evening. When I arrived about 7:15, there was only one man there, but he graciously told me I was welcome to watch. At 7:30, a few more had arrived. By 8:00, there were about a dozen. By 9:00, there were about 50 people, including children. Most were participants, either drummers or dancers, but many were simply watching. While no one actually approached me, they were all very nice and answered my questions. There was some joking with me…how much it would cost to watch, take pics, and participate….(I did not do that). By the time I left, I had all the children gathered around me asking questions, and playing. Reminded me of Mom…she used to call me the Piped Piper. But, it seemed like a great beginning as these are some of the families I hope to work with.

Tuesday morning we set off for Sheldon Point…Nunam Iqua. The pictures from the airplane are of the sunrise behind us as we flew. It was about 9:30 am. We went by way of Scammon Bay, dropped off a box, picked up two young girls, then on to our destination. We flew up the coast, with the Bering Sea, off to my left. There is a picture of the cockpit GPS, jittery as it was a bouncing plane, and then a view of the sea….very frozen! As we flew, I thought : “Doesn’t look much like the beach I just left!” Upon arrival at NI, we were met by Francis, the school secretary….and jack of all trades???…in a big gator type vehicle. He took us to the school The principal, Mary, then drove us to my home as I had a tub of food with me. There I found many of my boxes. It is a small one bedroom house. Bathroom with shower is elevated a step or two, as is the washer/dryer. However, the washer is not working. Previous tenants have left many things, including stereo and 2 Tvs. Just need cable. We returned to the school, toured, and ate lunch. I then went into the K -2 class to get acquainted with teacher and students. After school another teacher offered to walk with her to the housing. Whew! Did NOT bargain for this part of it. Nearly a mile across a causeway, or over the lake. Need that backpack! Need a smaller laptop!!!

Wednesday. A cold walk to school. Did some mini assess of K, worked with Nicole, K teacher. Early release day and faculty meeting. Walked home with Nicole, Bryn and B 8 year old daughter Lorna. Stopped at the post office, closes at 3, so not able to do business, but they sell some basic items as this village does not have a store. Met at Bryn’s for coffee and chat. Her back porch is diagonally across from my front door.

Thursday. Brutally cold walk. Snow pants and Bunny Boots shipped from Anchorage and have not arrived! School starts at 9. Around 10, Principal announced the power would be shut off, act accordingly. Not sure what that meant….no computers, but lights and heat came back on. Generators. Copy machine worked. Only 2 of 5 K students again today. Illness going through the room, including teacher. No internet at school so left right after. 3:30. Fixed my first real meal. Ground beef, bought in Anchorage, with celery and onions, mixed with mac and cheese, bought in MV. Not bad….”bachelor food”.

Friday…off to school bright and early. After much debate with self, decided to haul laptop one more time. Seemed even colder, though more clothes on. Got to the road…causeway…and could not see school lights. Debated about going back…go forward? Finally pushed on. As I thought, school locked up. Went to Principal’s house next door. She met me, in casual clothes, and said she tried to get a message to me by one of the other teachers, as she did not have my number. The generator was down. It seems the fuel transfer station froze and unable to transfer fuel to the generator. She lives in a 3 bedroom duplex right near the school. The counselor lives in the other side, along with an itinerant tutor who is staying with her. They invited me in to that side to warm up and stay awhile. Meanwhile, the principal was on the phone and radio. Finally, around 10 it was decided that the city could guarantee power not only all day Friday, but also into Friday night and Saturday. Students from two other villages were flying in for an elementary basketball tournament. We all trooped over to the school and by 11 about half or more of the students were there and the day continued as normal as possible. During the afternoon, I watched planes arrive and groups of 3 or 4 students either walked or rode the gator from the airport…big red building…to the school.

After school, the teachers were rolling equipment out of their rooms into storage, disconnecting computers, moving desks out of the way, getting their classrooms ready to be dorm rooms. Dinner was served to the teams in the hallways and at 6, the first game was held. We won by 1 point! The school store was opened, serving popcorn, soda, Gatorade, nacho cheese, candy, chips, and trinkets. The community arrived and paid $3.00 each for the game. Many arrived on snow machines. Some families came from Alukanuk (one of the teams), about 20 miles away on snow machine! I walked back with a couple teachers around 7:30 pm and it was just starting to get dark.

Saturday, my brother John called to inform me it was -24 degrees...and this about 10:00 am! I had just watched the sun come up from my back window. Talked with him for awhile, lost power. Realized around noon that I had no water. About 2, I finally went to Bryn’s to ask. Ended up staying there most of the afternoon, using internet, watching Nicole patch a pair of jeans on the sewing machine, seeing Bryn’s handiwork of gussbucks…the native dresses. Nicole had brought a sheet to make one for the Potlach in a few weeks. I brought over ground beef….they had not had in weeks…they each contributed and we had a great spaghetti dinner. Bryn made the French bread. We made plans to go to Emo, Emmonak, by snow machine on Sunday. 2 machines, 4 adults and a child in a sled. Bryn found me things to borrow as it will be cold.

Sunday….went to wash clothes at Bryn’s and she met me at the door with the news that we were not going. It is -41 wind chill and just too cold! Likely a good plan. I had a pot roast going and invited all over to eat. Nicole is sick, but another teacher was here. Lots of good conversation and finding out more of what is happening. Sounds like almost all these teachers have been here for 2 years and they are making plans to go to other villages next year. Mostly the issue of no store, but also some politics.

It is now about 6 pm. May or may not go to Bryn’s to post. Probably not. Hate to keep bothering her. It has been a beautiful sunny day, but brutally cold. I am not looking forward to the walk to school! Still no snow pants and boots. Once inside, peel off layers, but a tough walk. From what I hear, it is a thousand percent better than last year and since it is March, it is expected to mostly get better…..hopefully.

Bryn confirmed that I do have lakefront property when she looked out my back window. The smooth snow right in front, beyond the pipe, is the lake, further away is bumpy snow, that is what was pushed upriver in the fall flood, the smooth beyond that is the Yukon. The dark line beyond that is the other shore, about a mile wide. Looking that direction…East…is Mountain Village. To my right and over my shoulder is the direction of Alukanuk and Emmonak. Swan Lake is the name of the lake, however, the swans have not returned since the new school was built. The large green building off to the right. The old school was 2 doors down to my left. Burned down by a student 2 years ago. Yes, leaving my belongings here for the summer could be an issue.

Can’t remember the closing, but will find it and will use. For now, Good-bye from NI.

Almost There!

I arrived in Mountain Village this afternoon, after spending 8 nights in Anchorage.  First, it was about 14 hours from Orlando to Anchorage, with a layover in Seattle.  Not bad, actually.  Anchorage was a much bigger city than I realized.  It is nestled between Cook Inlet and the Chugachi Mountains.  Very cloudy, so hard to see much.  The temps all week were around 45 degrees, dipping to freezing at night, but, dirty, melting snow all over.  My hotel was on Lake Hood, a long time favorite of Bush Pilots (has changed hands many times over the years), It presently is frozen, but I watched a couple of planes take off and many guests flew in.  Lots of memorabilia throughout the hotel, along with life size models...stuffed???..animals and birds.  It is the headquarters of the Iditarod, which will be running the first weekend in March.  The lobby was filled with many temptations which I managed to mostly avoid.  One day I took a shuttle downtown, hoping to see the Museum.  As luck would have it, it was closed!  However, the tourist shops were  all open.  Again, I exercised great restraint and bought only a fleece jacket, which I wore every day as it was too warm for my parka, and a couple trinkets.  There were some beautiful ice sculptures in the town square (melting).  The next 3 days were spent in a Reading Workshop for Principals and Reading Specialists.  One morning I met a young lady from Arkansas, passing through on her way to another village out here.  Friday, I walked around, found a thrift store and bought a couple pair of jeans.  Silly me did not bring any ..what is that about?...and all people wear.  Saturday, after doing laundry at my high dollar hotel, off to a marathon shopping/mailing experience.  Keep reminding myself that once it is all there will not be spending anymore money....just paying back those who helped....I thank you sincerely!  Sunday morning, after checking in at the airport, we (my new boss and I ), made one more trip to the post office, then back to the airport.  Had to give up my carryon as we were going in a 15 passenger plane.  Thankfully, they did not charge me any more...had already paid extra for my frozen food.  That flight took about an hour and a half, bringing us to St. Mary's.  Our flight out was scheduled around 3:30, however, soon after we arrived, about noon thirty, it started snowing.  The first I had seen.....discussion followed....ended up when the snow quit and the skies cleared, 6 of us jumped into another plane for the 10 minute flight to MV.  Gear to follow later.  That was around 1:30,  2:00.  In other words, be ready to travel when weather permits, despite what the schedule may say.  Our luggage arrived around 3:30.  Meanwhile, I got a tour of the district office, the town, a visit to the local store ( $7.00 pizza for dinner).  It was on sale.  Bought Mac and Cheese, 2 cans of soup and the pizza...$16.00.... Brian, boss, got me checked into the "hotel."  It is a converted trailer..???..Many small bedrooms.  Bathrooms on one end.  Kitchen on the other.  Laundry in the middle.  It is Itinerant Teacher Housing.  One woman was here, hard at work.  She is a Psychologist who comes up from Oregon, spends 2 weeks travelling the villages, testing students.  She has given me great tips on how to survive with all the travelling, what to bring, what doesn't work, how to pack, etc.  All the things she has learned in her 6 or so visits this year.  There is another woman who lives here full time, but is in Anchorage now.  This is where I will stay when I am here.  In Nunam Iqua, I will have a residence.  Likely, I will be sleeping in the school at the 3rd village...hence, the sleeping bag!  The plan for now is to go to NI on Tuesday, get settled, explore, start getting acquainted and go to the third village next week. Brian is extremely busy and trying to adjust his schedule to do it all.  Sounds like I have a meeting with State representatives soon, along with the preschool people.  At the moment, I am connected to the wireless, but it does not sound like I will have in residence.  I can see already I need a much smaller laptop....along with many other lighten the load measures.  Will need to bring food, towels, etc as I travel, along with sleeping bag, and District mandated...travel in boots, parka, snow pants, face mask, hat, goggles, etc.   

Next time, I will try to write like I know how.  Meanwhile, as I stood looking at the frozen tundra...think National Geo pics...I was struck with the idea...Florida with BIG sand dunes...or in the case of Bartow, mining mountains...NO TREES!  Plants.  In fact, they reminded me of mangroves.  Not exactly the same, but since this is marshy area they are likely the same family, sort of.  Lots of clouds, so very hard to see.  River is 1 mile wide and frozen solid.  This is the "mountainous area", hence , the name. 

It is nearly 10 pm, which in your world means 2am.  Still not fully adjusted.  Has been a long day, so going to wrap this up and post.  Will go to FB to note there.  Thanks for all the good wishes.  JS  PS  Pics soon.

48 Hours

Only 48 hours until I am "leaving on a jet plane" for this new adventure!